Is 'Professional Pattern Tester' a real job out there where I could seriously make a living? Because I want to apply for the job and do it forever. Pattern testing combines part of my real job (QA/QC checking for design errors) and my hobby (sewing). It's a match made in heaven for me!
When I saw Christine's blog post about needing pattern testers, I immediately filled out the form. I have been dying to be a pattern tester for at least the past year. I always get a twang of jealousy when I read other bloggers tell their tales of pattern testing. Oh how cool and fun it always looks!
Of course, some of my biggest concerns in my ability to be a good pattern tester were whether I could meet the deadline and have a wearable garment. What if the pattern didn't fit my body shape and I couldn't figure out how to fix it? That would be pretty disastrous. I was doubly concerned about the deadline because I was sorta in the middle of packing to move. My sewing corner had seen better day. But then I found out I had been selected to be a pattern tester and I put all my fears and excuses behind me.
So the pattern....The Emery Dress by Christine Haynes
I freaking love it! I have no doubt this dress is going to be a hit! A throwback to the vintage dress era! A modest neckline with a fitted bodice. Gathered skirt that isn't too full, just the right amount of gathers. And those in-seam pockets.....oooooh the pockets are amazing. In my survey to Christine, I mentioned that when I first tried on the dress after sewing the bodice and skirt together I almost forgot it had pockets because they fit so well into the skirt pieces. No bulging on the sides at all. And the size of the pocket is just right. I tend to find pocket pieces, especially on skirts and dresses, are typically really big to the point where I could fit a ton of stuff in there, but who wants or needs to carry all that junk in their pretty dress pockets?
You can choose from short or long sleeves, collar or no collar, bow or no bow. If you're feeling adventurous you could modify the collar and bow pieces or even do without the sleeves. So many options, such a beautiful silhouette.
After I found out the fabric requirements for this pattern I went to the Fashion District in Downtown LA for the first time (not sure why it took me so long to shop there) and spent almost an hour looking around Michael Levine. The dress calls for a cotton fabric that drapes well (voile and lawn, even quilting cotton), but I was so tempted to buy a wool blend suiting type of fabric because I really liked the colors and subtle patterns in them. In the end I found a really cheap ($3/yard) reddish with a hint of black shirting cotton. Since I wasn't sure how well the dress would fit me, I opted to use a cheaper fabric for the first make, sorta banking on having a wearable muslin. (Although, my husband thinks the fabric looks terrible and doesn't recommend the dress leaving the house......umm, ok Tim Gunn...*dramatic eye roll*.)
The dress didn't take an extraordinary amount of time to make, but I did take my time making the dress because I wanted to make sure I was following Christine's directions exactly to make sure her instructions were correct (oh the horrors of being a pattern tester, not being able to take shortcuts!). Actually, I was so tempted to do some things "my" way, but no, couldn't possibly do that because it wouldn't be fair to Christine. And whadayaknow, I loved her methods and eventually saw why things were sewn as they were instructed.
So my advice to you is to follow her instructions, particularly with the 'basting three separate stitches' along the skirt pieces (and not basting the pocket pieces!) and hand-sewing the lining to the bodice (for a lovely clean finished look). Hand sewing...yes, there's a bit of that in this pattern. It takes time, you could go with a shortcut and stitch in the ditch or deal with a top stitch, but I recommend finding your patience, putting on a good TV show or movie, and pushing through it because hand sewing is totally worth it.
This pattern is labeled as an intermediate level so be prepared for lining, invisible zip, hand-sewing, and set-in sleeves.
I made/tested a size 2 and didn't make any changes at all (except for taking up the hem about 3.5 inches so my 4'-11" frame wasn't swimming in the dress). The darts fit perfectly so thankfully I didn't have to worry about moving any of them. (That was a HUGE relief!) The back neckline gapes a tad, but nothing too horrific. I don't think my arms are proportional to the rest of my frame so I always have issues with the armsyce and sleeves. This dress pattern actually fit pretty well in those areas, but I did sew the sleeves with a 3/8" seam allowance so my upper arms could get some blood flow.
There are fabric suggestions and cutting layouts for 44" and 54" wide fabric. In case you're interested, I used a 60" wide solid color fabric and cut all the pattern pieces (except for the long sleeves), including the skirt pieces at their original length, with less than 2 yards of fabric. I even cut all four collar pieces even though I eventually decided not to use them. If you're the type of person who likes having plenty of room for cutting error and pattern placement, then you'll probably want to use the suggested yardage. But I love trying to squeeze all of my pieces onto the least amount of fabric possible. Measure twice, cut once. Look at your pattern cutting line twice, cut once.
I was so excited to get photographs of this dress that I even brought home my nice black patent leather heels from work. I don't care what my husband thinks, I'm totally going to rock this dress at a client meeting!
I already have my fabric lined up for the next version! I'm thinking of making the collar sans bow version this time either with no sleeves or shorter cap sleeves. I bought a lightweight slight stretch cotton (maybe?) blend from the FIDM scholarship store for $1/yard. I also bought a suiting type fabric, but there was less than 2 yards left so I'm not sure I have enough. Again, $1/yard. Everyone in LA, you HAVE to check out the FIDM scholarship store! Anyway, I love this dress and can't wait to make more!
Thanks Christine for letting me test your pattern! I'm always available to test more! :)
When I saw Christine's blog post about needing pattern testers, I immediately filled out the form. I have been dying to be a pattern tester for at least the past year. I always get a twang of jealousy when I read other bloggers tell their tales of pattern testing. Oh how cool and fun it always looks!
Of course, some of my biggest concerns in my ability to be a good pattern tester were whether I could meet the deadline and have a wearable garment. What if the pattern didn't fit my body shape and I couldn't figure out how to fix it? That would be pretty disastrous. I was doubly concerned about the deadline because I was sorta in the middle of packing to move. My sewing corner had seen better day. But then I found out I had been selected to be a pattern tester and I put all my fears and excuses behind me.
So the pattern....The Emery Dress by Christine Haynes
I freaking love it! I have no doubt this dress is going to be a hit! A throwback to the vintage dress era! A modest neckline with a fitted bodice. Gathered skirt that isn't too full, just the right amount of gathers. And those in-seam pockets.....oooooh the pockets are amazing. In my survey to Christine, I mentioned that when I first tried on the dress after sewing the bodice and skirt together I almost forgot it had pockets because they fit so well into the skirt pieces. No bulging on the sides at all. And the size of the pocket is just right. I tend to find pocket pieces, especially on skirts and dresses, are typically really big to the point where I could fit a ton of stuff in there, but who wants or needs to carry all that junk in their pretty dress pockets?
You can choose from short or long sleeves, collar or no collar, bow or no bow. If you're feeling adventurous you could modify the collar and bow pieces or even do without the sleeves. So many options, such a beautiful silhouette.
After I found out the fabric requirements for this pattern I went to the Fashion District in Downtown LA for the first time (not sure why it took me so long to shop there) and spent almost an hour looking around Michael Levine. The dress calls for a cotton fabric that drapes well (voile and lawn, even quilting cotton), but I was so tempted to buy a wool blend suiting type of fabric because I really liked the colors and subtle patterns in them. In the end I found a really cheap ($3/yard) reddish with a hint of black shirting cotton. Since I wasn't sure how well the dress would fit me, I opted to use a cheaper fabric for the first make, sorta banking on having a wearable muslin. (Although, my husband thinks the fabric looks terrible and doesn't recommend the dress leaving the house......umm, ok Tim Gunn...*dramatic eye roll*.)
The dress didn't take an extraordinary amount of time to make, but I did take my time making the dress because I wanted to make sure I was following Christine's directions exactly to make sure her instructions were correct (oh the horrors of being a pattern tester, not being able to take shortcuts!). Actually, I was so tempted to do some things "my" way, but no, couldn't possibly do that because it wouldn't be fair to Christine. And whadayaknow, I loved her methods and eventually saw why things were sewn as they were instructed.
So my advice to you is to follow her instructions, particularly with the 'basting three separate stitches' along the skirt pieces (and not basting the pocket pieces!) and hand-sewing the lining to the bodice (for a lovely clean finished look). Hand sewing...yes, there's a bit of that in this pattern. It takes time, you could go with a shortcut and stitch in the ditch or deal with a top stitch, but I recommend finding your patience, putting on a good TV show or movie, and pushing through it because hand sewing is totally worth it.
This pattern is labeled as an intermediate level so be prepared for lining, invisible zip, hand-sewing, and set-in sleeves.
I made/tested a size 2 and didn't make any changes at all (except for taking up the hem about 3.5 inches so my 4'-11" frame wasn't swimming in the dress). The darts fit perfectly so thankfully I didn't have to worry about moving any of them. (That was a HUGE relief!) The back neckline gapes a tad, but nothing too horrific. I don't think my arms are proportional to the rest of my frame so I always have issues with the armsyce and sleeves. This dress pattern actually fit pretty well in those areas, but I did sew the sleeves with a 3/8" seam allowance so my upper arms could get some blood flow.
There are fabric suggestions and cutting layouts for 44" and 54" wide fabric. In case you're interested, I used a 60" wide solid color fabric and cut all the pattern pieces (except for the long sleeves), including the skirt pieces at their original length, with less than 2 yards of fabric. I even cut all four collar pieces even though I eventually decided not to use them. If you're the type of person who likes having plenty of room for cutting error and pattern placement, then you'll probably want to use the suggested yardage. But I love trying to squeeze all of my pieces onto the least amount of fabric possible. Measure twice, cut once. Look at your pattern cutting line twice, cut once.
I was so excited to get photographs of this dress that I even brought home my nice black patent leather heels from work. I don't care what my husband thinks, I'm totally going to rock this dress at a client meeting!
I already have my fabric lined up for the next version! I'm thinking of making the collar sans bow version this time either with no sleeves or shorter cap sleeves. I bought a lightweight slight stretch cotton (maybe?) blend from the FIDM scholarship store for $1/yard. I also bought a suiting type fabric, but there was less than 2 yards left so I'm not sure I have enough. Again, $1/yard. Everyone in LA, you HAVE to check out the FIDM scholarship store! Anyway, I love this dress and can't wait to make more!
Thanks Christine for letting me test your pattern! I'm always available to test more! :)
First off, congratulations on getting to be an official pattern tester! If you ever need, like, character references for future gigs like this, let me know. :D
ReplyDeleteSecond, your husband is INSANE saying you shouldn't wear this dress out of the house. It's fantastic! I love the style of it, and your work is so professional. And clearly this is a great dress because your modeling shots are completely free of weird faces!
--Schn.
Thanks, Schnookie! I really like the style of the dress. The fabric is a bit iffy, but I think it's totally fine to wear out of the house. I think the darker color will fit much better with fall/winter weather as opposed to the heat wave we've recently had.
ReplyDeleteI tried taking photos of myself by using the cat tree as a tripod. Ha! My husband felt bad for me, but was still very reluctant to be the photographer. I think his exact words, "ok hurry up, let's get this over with quickly."
Your dress looks great! Love seeing how the other testers versions came out. Yours makes me want to do a solid color next!
ReplyDeleteThanks! After seeing the other testers' versions, I can't wait to use a print! (of course, right?)
Delete